The Costa Blanca or White Coast, which extends along that section of the Mediterranean coast which corresponds to the province of Alicante, is made up of two clearly differentiated scenic sectors.
To the North, a curtain of mountains runs parallel to the sea, descending at times to form cliffs; to the South, a vast plain of sand patches, palm trees and salt deposits make up the backdrop for the beaches.
The traveller can choose any of the corners of this coast, from the most bustling and cosmopolitan to those which still maintain their rural air beside the sea. In any case, the trip to the nearby regions is well worth the venture for they make up a fine representation of the typical Mediterranean countryside.
From the valleys, which are covered with stepped orchards and keep alive its Moorish past, to the palm trees of unmistakable African origin, the horizons of the Costa Blanca offer the most varied attractions.
The climate offers variations as well. The temperatures are usually mild -the annual average is a little higher than 17ºC- and rain is scare, though the pluvosity is logically higher in the mountainous northern sector, in comparison with the lowlands which surround Elche and Orihuela. The fields of almond trees, the vineyards, the fruit orchards and the magnificent palm trees form a vegetation which emphasizes the oriental nature of the landscape.
The Coastal Route
From Denia to El Pilar de la Horadada the trip along the coast is a very pleasant car ride. Of course, our advice is to leave the motorway for more urgent journeys and take the national highway which runs almost entirely along the sea. We will suggest several detours along the local highways which will enable our readers to discover the more interesting corner. We are proposing an unrushed an interesting itinerary, but we feel that we should advise the traveller that if he visits this area in the summer, the entrance into the main towns may, to the contrary, turn out to be very busy and overwhelming.
Denia is the starting point, at the northern limit to the Costa Blanca. The city, presided over by a castle which enjoys a splendid view, unfolds in a clearly urban ambience, though it still preserves intimate little corners in the fishing quarters of Baix la Marand Les Roques, near the fortress. The Church of Santa Maria, of the 17C, is its most outstanding sight. The surrounding present several spots of enormous interest: the view from the Torre (Tower) del Gerro, a watchtower, erected in the 17C, six kilometres from Denia heading in the direction of San Antonio, certainly deserves a visit.
Both to the North as well as the South, the Denia littoral is made up of fine beaches. In order to enjoy the Mediterranean countryside in one of its best versions, we suggest that the traveller go to the Cabo de San Antonio: from here, with the Sierra de Montgo mountains in the background, to the Cabo de La Nao, the journey leads through cliffs, mountains, coves and along the sea.
Also at the foot of the Montgo range and extending along the strip of coastline between the Cabo de San Antonio and San Martin Cave is Javea (nine kilometres from Denia). However, the traveller will understand why this town has been traditionally chosen by visitors from all over Europe in order to enjoy a privileged retirement. The centre of town, located inland, preserves among its popular constructions, a fortress-like church and a Gothic façade. At the other end of the Javea cove, today occupied by modern buildings, is the rocky section of the coast which extends as far as Cabo de la Nao, with the little island of Portichol opposite.
Natural caves exist within the cliffs, which can be visited by using precarious ladders; the caves are known, because of their dangerous conditions, as pesqueras de la muerte (fishing grounds of death). Heading inland in this region, the traveller will find, among the vineyards and fields, some fine examples of riu-rau, a popular type of dwelling preceded by an arcaded front which has inspired many of the villas that have been constructed more recently. 15km from Javea is Moraira, an old fishing port protected against pirates by an old castle and watch-tower. Further inland there is Benissa and the lovely layout of its streets and houses. From there a pleasant road leads through La Fustera - an interesting tourist resort - and then to Calpe (about 10km away) at the foot of the Peñon de Ifach, a rock jutting out from the sea and classified as a nature park today. The Peñon (or rock), joined to the mainland by a narrow isthmus, is one of the most characteristic views of the Costa Blanca. On both sides, there are two small coves with highly recommended beaches.
From here, the coastal itinerary follows the national road. About four kilometres from Calpe is the Mascarat tunnel which crosses one of the rockiest foothills of the Bernia Sierra. At the exit of the tunnel, we suggest that the traveller pause for a few moments to admire this section of the littoral where the sea takes on a very profound shade of blue. Very close by, near Olla de Altea (a rural district which precedes the actual town of Altea), is, to the right, a detour which leads to Altea la Vieja (Altea the Old) and Castell de Guadalest. This is one of the most beautiful excursions to be made in the province. But let us continue along the coast for the moment.
Altea is now very close and our advice is to leave the car in any of the streets which branch off from the main road and begin a long, leisurely walk through the part of the recently built sector. The old section is perched on top of a hill from which a splendid view can be had. The ascent, along steep slopes and stepped streets, reveals a broad horizon at every turn and extends along the entire La Marina region: the silhouette of the Peñon de Ifach on one side and the Helade range on the other, frame the view of the sea, with the gulls sweeping low over the town. Heading inland, the Bernia range runs perpendicular to the coast and very close the village. The orange orchards and almond tree fields spread out towards the South, with the massive Puig Campana forming the backdrop. A small parish church is located at the highest point of the town, crowned with a tiled dome, constituting one of the most representative views of Altea.
If we return to the lower part of the town, the traveller will find a couple of establishments, which have been there forever, where one can sample an excellent paella cooked over a wood fire or simply have a glass of local wine under the shade of an umbrella, with the shining sea below. A recently inaugurated esplanade, flanked by outdoor bars and restaurants, is a delightful place to stop and relax.
Eight kilometres from Altea, heading inland, is Polop, a small town surrounded by orchards and pine groves, which is highly recommended for those who seek peace and quiet and cool summer nights. From the Via Crucis which presides over the town, one can obtain a splendid view of the surrounding valleys, which owe their present appearance to the work of the Morisco farmers many years ago. A narrow local road will take us very soon to Xirles, a village in which we can enjoy some excellent paella's under the shade of leafy old trees. The fountains of Polop, Xirles and the nearby village of La Nucia have always made this area an ideal destination for brief excursions. Very close to Polop on the way to the coast, there is La'Alfas del Pi with its splendid beach called Albir.
Benidorm, the next stop on our itinerary, can be reached via Altea or directly from Polop. Here the first visit should be to the small section of old streets which was all that existed of today's busy tourist centre only three decades ago. The Balcony of the Mediterranean is an observation platform which sits on the site of a no longer existing fortress and it affords a magnificent view of the Levante and Poniente beaches and the nearby island of Benidorm. The maritime esplanade which runs parallel to the Levante beach, the urban developments of tall skyscrapers and the incredible proliferation of shops, restaurants, outdoor cafes, ice-cream parlours, discotheques and a general variety of entertainment establishments are a show in and by themselves for the traveller. The people who sit at the out-door tables lining the main avenues in the summer are also a part of the landscape which characterizes the major tourist resorts during the summer months.
10km from Benidorm is Villajoyosa, where there is a considerable fishing fleet. Near the port, in the lower part of town, is a very pleasant esplanade shaded by palm trees and flanked by old façades which have been painted with bright colours. The combinations of ochre's, reds, yellows and aniline blues are repeated in the houses which appear to be suspended over the dry bed of the river, another of the most characteristic sights of Villajoyosa. On the way inland very near Villajoyosa, there is Finestrat. In its vicinity Mount Puig Campana is an impressive sight in the heart of Aitana Sierra.
17km away is a turn-off on the right which leads to Aguas de Busot near which is an ancient spa, closed nowadays and surrounded by pines. Eight kilometres further on is Busot, and ten more, on the slopes of Cabeco d'Or, are the Camllobre Caves which contain a big room filled with fascinating calcareous formations. If we return to our starting point, the traveller can choose to continue in the direction of Alicante along the inland route (15km) or head towards the beaches of El Campello, Muchavista and San Juan, which have been entirely urbanized. The highway continues to La Albufereta, leaving the Cape of Las Huertas with its tiny intimate coves on the left.
The Albufera is almost an integral quarter now of the city of Alicante. We enter the city with the Postiguet beach on one side and the rocky mountains, crowned by the Santa Barbara castle, on the other. Once again, we suggest that the traveller park his car and begin on foot the visit to the sunny city, amidst ever-present palm trees and the sea. The Castle, which can be reached by an elevator, offers a complete view of the town, the port and the Paseo de la Explanada. The Church of Santa Maria with its façade representative of the Valencia Baroque style and set in the heart of the old quarter, the Town Hall, the church of San Nicolas and the mannerist and Baroque façades of the buildings on Labradores Street are the main monumental landmarks in this city. They are all located within a limited space in the old section. The Rambla, perpendicular to La Explanada and also lined with palm trees, is the main thoroughfare in Alicante´s daily life. We suggest that the traveller sample a refreshing glass of horchata (a drink made from earth almonds) in one of the outdoor cafes or ice-cream parlors which line these two avenues, before he continues on his way.
We can take the same national highway heading in the direction of Murcia. Soon after we leave Alicante, a turn-off announced the city of Elche; but we will visit this city when we cover the inland route. Passing some flat country, which was a salt deposit up until only recently, we come to Santa Pola. There is a broad beach on the left -Los Arenales del Sol- backed by a section of sand dunes.
Santa Pola is only 18km from Alicante and it fishing port has always enjoyed an excellent reputation, thanks to the magnificent prawns and red mullet which are brought in by the fishing boats. Though the wave of summer vacationers has reached this town as well, it has still managed to preserve all of the noisy and traditional ambience of the ancient Lonjas (Commodity Exchanges) in the daily sales of the fish which are taken right off the boats. In the heart of town, an ancient fortress built in the 16C reminds of the times when Santa Pola served as the port for Elche and it was always threatened by Berber attacks. The Cape of Sant Pola, near the town, offers a very broad view of the area and the nearby island of Tabarca.
If the traveller noted a sharp change in the scenery -to flat plains- when he left Alicante the section of land which separates Santa Pola from Guardamar del Segura is surely a fine example of the horizon which characterizes the Vega Baja. An extension of salt deposits located near the endless beaches defines this land which at some points is even below sea level.
Guardamar, standing out on a long beach, is surrounded by sand dunes covered with pines, eucalyptus and bushes. Just 15km further to the South is Torrevieja, near the vast salt deposits which once constituted one of the main sources of income in this province. The gleaming flooded land which takes on unique tones at dusk and the blinding white mountains of salt offer a unique and immensely attractive landscape. Torrevieja also has a popular yacht and fishing harbour. Very close by are the beaches of Orihuela; Punta Prima, Playa Flamenca, Cabo Roig, La Zenia, Dehesa de Campoamor and El Pilar de la Horadada.
Denia and the Valleys.
The excursion which we are proposing first cuts through the old Marquisate of Denia. The landscape is mountainous and bears the traces of the presence of the Moriscos and it is perhaps the most representative of the inland regions.
A local highway which skirts the coast will lead the traveller to Pego, passing Safari Park on the right. Pego, (about 2km from Denia) is an important farming community, dedicated chiefly to the growing of rice and citrus fruits. From here, the itinerary will follow the local road 3311 through the mountains and past tiny towns, which guard some reminder of their Moorish past. Al-Azraq was born here in the 13C, an almost legendary figure who fought against the troops of Jaime I at the Alcoy ramparts. According to tradition, which is perpetuated in the Fiestas de Moros y Cristianos, San Jorge de Capodocia was responsible for obtaining the victory for the Christian King. The slopes covered with fig, cherry, olive and almond trees, vineyards and he ruins of fortresses define the horizon in these silent valleys.
Planes (30km from Pego) is the next stop on our trip. Just before we reach the town, the highway runs past Barranco de la Encantada, one of the most beautiful settings in the entire area. The town, located on the slopes of a hill and at the foot of a castle, is a faithful reminder of medieval urbanism. Some mansions and the small retables of tile which make up the Via Crucis are the most characteristic tourist features of Planes. Near the town, in a shady and cool setting, is the 16C or 17C aqueduct with Gothic arches, which is a delightful corner to spend some free time.
Further on, in the same direction and crossing national highway 340, the traveller will come to Agres (about 15km away) at the foot of the Sierra de Mariola. Soon after, and worthy of a stop, is Frare (Fraile-Friar) de Agres, a rock of an unusual shape, from which a spring of thermal waters flows surrounded by lush vegetation. Once in the town, the traveller should begin the ascent of the Stations of the cross, which offer a splendid view. At the highest point is a small convent -La Mare de Deu d'Agres- which, according to tradition, is located on a site which was miraculously selected by the image which is worshipped there.
The surroundings of Agres have always been popular among hikers. In addition to real botanical rarities, such as the small forest of yews which are reputed to be the most southerly in Europe, to the caves which were used to store snow until the summer in another period -pous de la neu-, any corner can be the setting for a most pleasant stroll. The proximity of Mariola, on whose slopes a great variety of aromatic plants grow, is also highly recommended area of nature.
Museums
In the following the traveller will find the addresses and visiting hours of the main museums which are found along the itineraries described. Please check availability and opening hours before leaving for the individual attractions.
Alicante
Provincial Archaeological Museum. 6, La Estacion Aven. Tel: 512 1300. Open on weekdays: 9am until 1.30pm. Closed on Sundays and holidays.
La Asegurada Municipal Museum of 20C art. 3, Santa Maria Square. Tel: 521 4578. Bonfire Museum. Santa Barbara Castle. Tel: 526 3131. Open from 10am until 1pm and from 5 until 9pm. In the summer from 10am until 1pm and from 5 until 8pm. Closed on Saturday afternoons.
Agost
Pottery Museum. 11, Teuleria St. Tel: 569 1199. In the summer open from 11am until 2pm and from 5 until 8pm. In the winter from noon until 2pm. Closed on Mondays.
Alcoy
"Camino Visedo" Municipal Archaeological Museum. 60, San Miguel St. Tel: 554 0644. Temporarily closed for alterations.
Casal Sant Jordi Museum of Celebrations. 60, San Miguel St. Tel 544 0585. On weekdays open from 11am until 1pm and from 5:30 until 8pm. Closed on holidays, Saturdays and Sundays.
Crevillente
Mariano Benlliure Municipal Museum. Glorieta Gaieta. Tel. 540 0223. By appointment. Call the above number.
Denia
Archeological Museum. At the castle. Tel: 578 0100. Open from 10:30am until 1pm and from 3pm until 6pm. Closed on Thursday.
Elche
Municipal Archaeological Museum. In the Municipal Park. Tel: 545 6303. Open from 10am until 1pm and from 4pm until 7pm. Closed Mondays.
La Alcudia Museum. Archaeological excavation site. On the road from Elche to Dolores. Tel: 545 9667. Closed for Alterations.
Ibi
Toy Museum. Casa Gran. Virgen de Los Desamparados Sq. Tel: 655 0226. Open from 10am until 1pm and from 4pm until 7pm. Closed on Sunday afternoons and on Mondays.
Javea
"Soler Blasco" Archaeological and Ethnographical Museum. 1, Primicias St. Tel: 579 1098. Open from 10am until 1pm from Tuesday to Sunday. In the summer: from 10am until 1pm and from 5pm until 8pm from Tuesday to Friday, on Saturdays and Sundays from 10:30am until 1pm.
Monovar
Azorin House-cum-Museum. 6, Salamanca St. Tel: 547 0715. Open from 8am until 2:30pm from Monday to Saturday.
Orihuela
Diocesan Museum of Sacred Art. Teniente Linares Sq. Tel: 530 2747. By appointment. Check with the Tourist Information Centre.
Museum of the Reconquest. 25, San Francisco Die St. Rubacalva Palace. Tel: 530 2747 (Tourist Information Centre). Open from 11am until 1pm and from 5pm until 7pm from Monday to Friday.
Miguel Hernandez House-cum-Museum. Arriba St. Tel: 530 2747 (Tourist Information Centre). Open from 9am until 2pm from Monday to Friday.
Villena
Municipal Archaeological Museum. 12, Santiago Square. Tel: 580 1156. By appointment. Call the above number.
Marinas
Alicante
Real Club de Regatas de Alicante. Tel: 521 8600. Max. Draught: 9m.
Club Nautico Costa Blanca. Tel: 526 6986. Max. Draught: 3m.
Altea
Club Nautico de Altea. Tel: 584 1591. Max Draught: 5m.
Luis Campomanes Marina. Tel: 584 2200. Max draught: 10m.
Benidorm
Club Nautico de Benidorm. At Poniente beach. Tel: 585 3067. Max. draught: 5m.
Calpe
Les Bassetes Harbour (between the townships of Calpe and Benissa). Tel: 583 1213. Max. draught: 14m.
Darsena Puerto Blanco. Tel: 583 1337. Max. draught: 3.5m.
Club Nautico de Calpe. Tel: 583 1809. Max. draught: 5m.
Campello
Darsena de la Illeta. Tel: 563 1748. Max. draught: 5m.
Denia
Club Nautico de Javea. Tel: 573 0350. Max. draught: 3m.
Javea
Club Nautico de Javea. Muelle Norte. Tel: 579 1025. Max. draught: 2m.
Moraira
Club Nautico de Moraira. Municipio de Teulada. Tel: 574 4319 and 574 4461. Max. draught: 7.5m.
Orihuela
Club Nautico Dehesa de Campoamor. Tel: 532 0386. Max. draught: 2.5m.
Puerto Deportivo de Cabo Roig. Tel: 676 0176. Max. draught: 4m.
Pilar de la Horadada
Club Nautico Torre de la Horadada. Tel: 535 1687. Max. draught: 3.5m.
Santa Pola
Sociedad Deportiva Club Nautico de Santa Pola. Tel: 541 2403. Max. draught: 5m.
Torrevieja
Club Nautico de Torrevieja. Tel: 571 0108. Max. draught: 9m.
Villajoyosa
Puerto de Villajoyosa. Tel: 589 3606. Max. draught: 7m.
Transport
Airlines
The international airport of El Altet (Alicante) has regular flights connecting with several points in Spain and Europe. For reservations or information, call Tel: 528 5011 or, if it is a matter of national service, the Iberia Office on the Paseo de Soto, for information in general, call 521 8613 and 521 8510. For bookings: 520 6000.
Railway
Two RENFE lines cover the Madrid-Alicante and Alicante-Murcia routes. The RENFE (Spanish Rail) offices are on the Paseo de Explanada, 1 (Alicante), and the telephone number is 522 6840. There is also a narrow-track line which connects Alicante with Denia. It runs very close to the coast. The length of the journey - there is a stop at each place along the way- is compensated for by the beauty of the route. The FEVE (narrow track railway) offices are in the Avenida de Villajoyosa. The telephone number is 526 2731.
Buses
All of the towns of the Alicante province are connected by regular bus lines. For information as to schedules and routes, contact the Central Bus Station at Calle Portugal: The telephone number is 522 0700.
Ships
There is regular boat service from Alicante Port to the Balearic Islands and Oran (Algeria). The Compañia Trasmediterranea has its offices at Explanada de España, 2. Tel: 520 6011.
From Denia there is a regular service to Ibiza run by the Compañia ISNADA. The telephone number in Denia is 578 4100. In Ibiza, 530 4096. Also by the Compañia de Formentera. Explanada del Puerto.
Tourist Information Centres (Area Code 96)
Alicante:
Tourist Information Centre of the Generalitat Valenciana (the Regional Government). 2, Explanada de España. Tel: 521 2285. Telephone for tourists: 520 0000.
Municpal Tourist Information Centre: 1, Ayuntamiento Sq. Tel: 521 7835.
In the summer these tourist authorities run two offices: one at San Juan beach and the other at La Albufera beach.
Tourist Office of the Tourist Initiative Centre (CIT) in Alicante. 17, Portugal St. (Bus terminal). Tel: 522 3802.
Altea:
Tourist Office of the CIT in Altea. Paseo Maritimo. Tel: 584 2301.
Benidorm:
Municipal Tourist Information Centre, 16, Martinez Alejos Ave. Tel: 585 3224. Apart from this centre, the tourist authorities of the Benidorm Town council opens another two in the summer, one in La Cala and the other in Europa Avenue.
Benissa:
Municipal Tourist Information Centre: Pasage Glorieta. Tel: 573 1842.
Calpe:
Municipal Tourist Information Centre. 66, Ejercitos Españoles Avenue. Tel: 583 1250.
Denia:
Municipal Tourist Information Centre. Patricio Ferrandiz. Tel: 578 0957.
Elche:
Municipal Tourist Information Centre. Portell de Granyana. Passeig de l'Estacio. Tel: 545 2747. Municipal Tourist Information Centre at El Altet Airport. Tel: 528 5011. Ext. 100.
Guardamar del Segura:
Municipal Tourist Information Centre. 5, La Constitucion Sq. Tel: 572 9014. (Town Hall).
Javea:
Municipal Tourist Information Centre. 24, Almirante Bastarreche. Tel: 579 0736.
Moraira:
Tourist Office of the CIT in Moraira. 12, El Portet Avenue. Tel: 574 5168.
Orihuela:
Municipal Tourist Information Centre. 25, Francisco Die St. Rubalcava Palace. Tel: 530 2747.
Torrevieja:
Municipal Tourist Information Centre. Capdepon Sq. Tel: 571 0722.
Santa Pola:
Tourist Office of the CIT in Santa Pola. Diputacion Sq.